At the eastern edge of the Aptera plateau, where the ground drops steeply towards the sea, stands a stone fortress with a round tower and thick walls. Locals call it the Koules, from the Turkish word for a tower or small fort. It is far younger than the ancient city around it, and it tells a very different story.

Built after the revolt of 1866

In the 19th century Crete was still part of the Ottoman Empire, and the island rose up again and again. The great Cretan revolt that began in 1866 lasted for about three years and shook Ottoman control of the countryside. After it, the authorities built a network of small forts and towers across the island to watch the roads, villages and coasts.

The Koules at Aptera belongs to that period. Its position was chosen with care. From the edge of the plateau you can see the whole of Souda Bay, the Akrotiri peninsula opposite, the plain of Apokoronas behind and the routes leading up from the shore. Down by the water at Kalami, a larger Ottoman fortress, known as Izzeddin, was built around the same time. The two worked together to control the bay.

A place to watch the bay

Souda Bay has always mattered. It is one of the largest and most sheltered natural harbours in the Mediterranean. The Venetians fortified the small islet in the middle of the bay, and that fortress held out for decades after the rest of Crete had fallen to the Ottomans. Whoever held the heights above the bay could see every ship coming in.

That is the role the Koules played. It was a garrison post and lookout. Its walls are pierced with small openings for firing and watching. It stayed in use through the last decades of Ottoman rule, before Crete became autonomous and finally joined Greece in 1913.

What you see today

The fortress has been restored and is open to visitors. You walk through the gate into a small enclosure with the round tower at one corner. The stonework is plain and solid, built for use rather than show.

The real reward is the view. From the walls you look straight down to Kalami and the Izzeddin fortress, across to the Lefkes islets and the Venetian fortress of Souda, and out over the water towards Akrotiri. At sunset the whole bay turns gold and pink, and the White Mountains catch the last light behind you.

The Koules on the Sunset Quad

Our Sunset Quad ends here, at the top of Aptera, as the sun goes down over Souda Bay. Everyone can enjoy the view from outside the walls. Going inside the fortress is optional. If you would like to go in, the entrance ticket is €2 per person, paid in cash, so bring a few coins with you.

Good to know

  • Wear closed shoes. The ground inside is uneven and the steps are old stone.
  • Take care near the edges of the walls, especially with children.
  • Bring a light layer for the evening. It can get breezy on the plateau after sunset.